Wow. So intense and spicy with nutmeg, cloves, ink and blackberries. Also asphalt, lead pencil and tobacco. Full-bodied, but at the same time, there’s a real balance giving incredible depth and length. The tannins are all there but are polished as well as firm. Superb structure. A neoclassical Cos, one for long-term aging. Perhaps the best ever. A blend of 61% cabernet sauvignon, 37% merlot, 1% cabernet franc and 1% petit verdot. Drink after 2030.

Vivid and vibrant black berry fruit on the nose. Supple and lively, this has a brilliant texture and weight in the mouth, slightly grippy but with an iron-tang giving a mineral aspect to the fruit with hints of liquorice spice. Still a little compact in terms of the expressiveness of flavours but there's no faulting the tannic finesse on offer. Acidity is perfect, really lifting the expression with blueberries, pencil lead and clove. This carries the strength of the vintage - the sunny fruit and headiness of the aromas are pure 2022 but it's also incredibly refined with such class on show. I love it. (Drink between 2027-2050) (GH)

The blend of the grand vin is 61% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot and 1% each Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, picked during what was the estate’s earliest harvest since 1989, and this accounts for more than half the production in this vintage, higher than usual, a sign of the quality within 2022. The élevage was in 50% new oak, and it was bottled in July 2024. The aromatics are dark, concentrated and spiced, with dried blackcurrant fruits, black olive, damson and rose, crushed gravel and a touch of fragrant mint. A supple, polished, seductive texture follows on the palate, with a wealth of dark liquorice and dried olive fruits wrapped in a superb frame of tightly knit and confident tannins, which linger with a tight and spicy intent on the finish. A wine which combines the dark and exotic fruit of the vintage with a fresh, powdery, sooty and tannic structure. Hugely impressive, with a great future. One for the cellar, as I can see this benefiting from a couple of decades of gentle slumber. Tasted twice. The alcohol is 14.04%, with 14% on the label.