Les Croux was one of the first single vineyard bottlings of Pouilly-Fuissé I was ever introduced to, as I sold Jean-Marie Guffens’ version starting with the 1985 vintage when I was a still young wine merchant. As I do not taste the Guffens-Heynen wines anymore, I was very happy to see that Jacques Saumaize has started producing a version of les Croux. His 2023 version is lovely, offering up fine depth of ripe fruit and lovely mineral undertow in its aromatic constellation of apple, fresh apricot, a fine base of chalky soil tones, a touch of hazelnut, honeysuckle and a deft framing of new oak. On the palate the wine is bright, ripe, full-bodied and zesty, with a superb core of fruit, a good base of soil, bright acids and a long, complex and very nicely balanced finish. This is a touch riper than the les Courtelongs bottling this year (13.5 versus thirteen percent octane) and is more generous out of the blocks as a result. (Drink between 2025-2035)

The Saumaizes have had the contract to farm this vineyard since 2021. It has to be worked by horse and hand as they cannot get a tractor in. (The previous vigneron was not organic but couldn’t get any chemicals in!). Clearly a more powerful and less refined style, given the western exposure of Les Croux. Plenty of concentration here in white fruit, a little bit of bitter fennel at the finish, all of which will integrate. A wine with interesting potential for the longer term. SUBR Drink from 2028-2034. Tasted Jun 2025.