Not the deepest colour in the flight, and all the better for it. Here the fruit is at optimum ripeness and thus gives a delicious perfume. This is understated but extremely fine, a classical Burgundy despite the warmth of the year. An example of the stems being put to good effect. Drink from 2028-2037. Tasted Sep 2024.

This site can often produce wines that only show their full potential at the end of élevage, and it certainly seems that I somewhat underestimated the potential of Dujac's 2020 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts from barrel, as it showed even better from bottle. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of dark berries, cassis and plums mingled with notions of sweet spices and vine smoke, it's medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated, with huge depth at the core, powdery tannins and a long, resonant finish. While this remains a somewhat reserved wine, its potential quality is much easier to grasp.(WK)

The 2020 Vosne-Romanée Malconsorts 1er Cru has a riper nose than its peers, possibly later picked, yet it retains freshness and gains complexity with aeration. Light oyster shells and iris flower scents develop with time. The palate has more mineralité than its peers in this flight. It offers wonderful tension and is poised and velvety in texture, but the finish has impressive complexity and terroir expression. Superb. Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting.(NM)