Some wines make you understand why humans have been obsessed with fermented grape juice for thousands of years. This is one of those wines. It's like discovering a secret room in a house you thought you knew completely. Golden apple and white peach float on a cloud of Alpine herbs, while crushed stones and salted lemon keep pulling you back to the glass. Each taste unfolds with the precision of a master watchmaker but feels as natural as breathing. The texture makes you question everything you thought you knew about white wine. If you're lucky enough to find a bottle, cancel your plans for the evening. This is the kind of wine that deserves your full attention and rewards it generously. (JP)