This is racy and aromatic, with blossom honey, lemons, limes and crushed stone. Some Thai basil, too. It’s medium- to full-bodied with fresh acidity and plenty of energy. Solid and polished in the Haut-Brion way. Better to leave this for three or four years.

The grand vin in white is 55% Semillon and 45% Sauvignon Blanc, unusually the same blend in all three whites from Domaine Clarence Dillon this year (I say this just in case you thought I had messed up with copy and paste) The yield on this vineyard was a handsome 45 hl/ha, rather higher than its famous neighbour. It kicks off with a delightfully expressive nose, of powdered chalk, pine needle and acacia, delineated and direct. The palate really takes it up a notch compared with La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc, impressing with a supple and gently silky texture, supporting a beautifully vibrant fruit profile, and driven along by some delicious acidity. This feels so complete and harmonious, and yet it is clearly bursting with vibrancy and vigour. A Haut-Brion Blanc straining at the leash this year, and one certainly destined for the cellar, and yet it has such vibrancy and mouth-watering acidity I would gladly drink this now. Of course, with only 500-or-so cases produced, finding some would be another matter. The alcohol is 13.75%.

I loved the 2021 Château Haut-Brion Blanc, and it's a candidate for the wine of the vintage. Incredibly pure notes of ripe golden fruits, citrus, white flowers, and a kiss of background spice and oak all define the aromatics, and it's medium to full-bodied on the palate, with both richness and freshness. It unquestionably plays in the fresher style of the vintage, yet this beauty brings ample mid-palate depth, a rich, layered texture, and awesome length. It’s a killer white that will evolve for 20-30 years if well stored.