Grand Champ and Bas de Duresses. The former will disappear from 2025, along with some Bourgogne Blanc as part of the deal which has enabled the purchase of the new Meursault and Beaune Teurons vineyards. Slightly lighter and perhaps bonier than the Monthelie but still with a good concentration behind. Drink from 2027-2030. Tasted Oct 2024.

Note: from Bas des Duresses and Les Grands Champs. An equally pretty and even spicier nose reflects a mix of both red and dark berries with more evident earth influence. The delicious middle weight flavors also possess good punch on the lingering finale that needs more depth so again, a few years of bottle aging are needed.

The 2023 Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru offers up notes of orange zest, red plums and spices, followed by a medium-bodied palate that's denser and sweeter than the Monthélie. Over the last twenty years, Jean-Marc Roulot’s chiseled, incisive interpretation of Meursault, pared down to its essentials, has disrupted stereotypes of the appellation, charting a singularly original path. When his father, Guy, passed away in 1982, this historic estate was already well-known: along with René Lafon’s Clos de la Barre, Guy was one of the pioneers of lieu-dit bottlings at the communal level, showcasing the family’s holdings in some of the village’s finest hillside sites. After completing his acting studies at the Paris Conservatoire, in 1989 Jean-Marc himself returned to take the reins, with the confidence and aesthetic vision to chart his own course, flying in the face of the rich, buttery style then in vogue. Since 1999, farming has been organic, with experiments in biodynamics. Harvesting is typically early (though that is determined by taste more than analysis), and the fruit is gently crushed in the winery, followed by slow pneumatic pressing, with pressure increasing in small increments to deliver a large juice yield for comparatively little pressure. In the cellar below, percentages of new oak were never elevated and have only declined, with ceramic vessels and foudres now complementing traditional 228-liter barrels (mainly from Tonnellerie Damy). After 12 months’ élevage,(WK)