The 2004 Cristal is nuanced and classy right out of the gate. Hints of lemon confit, marzipan, tangerine oil, spice and chamomile are all suggestive of a Champagne that has arrived at its first inflection point of early maturity. The interplay of slightly more mature notes with a good deal of freshness makes for an incredibly delicious wine to enjoy now. As it turns out, I tasted the 2004 again the following day and found it even more vibrant than the bottles we served at this lunch. This remains one of my favorite vintages here. Two thousand and four was the highest-yielding vintage in Champagne at the time, yet the best wines have always been compelling. (AG)