2022 Miguel Merino "Viñas Jóvenes" Rioja

There's an earthy, slightly farmyardy note on the nose here, which may put some people off, but it sort of works in the context of the wine. Marrying Tempranillo and 8% Graciano from vineyards that are less than 25 years' old, it's savoury, spicy and lightly wooded with succulent red berry sweetness.

The Viñas Jóvenes is Miguel Merino’s “village” wine, crafted from younger vines (between 10 and 25 years of age) and designed to show off the personality of the village of Briones where the winery is located. These are vines in training, in a sense, waiting to grow old enough to be included in the Reserva or Gran Reserva, yet in the interim produce readily accessible, highly enjoyable wines bursting with exuberant red fruit notes framed by a delicately savory quality. Made from 92% Tempranillo, with smaller amounts of Graciano and Garnacha, the wine ages for 12 months in second use barrels as well as 500L casks, to emphasize the youthful fruit and not cloak it in oak. Ready to drink now, with juicy fruit notes and lively acidity, this is hardly a trivial wine, however. Rather, it has a surprising amount of concentration for such a well-priced bottle, with a noticeable Miguel Merino thumbprint of elegance, finesse and restrained energy pulsing through the core of the wine, just like its older siblings.