A domaine-owned parcel at the foot of the slope in Nuits, just on the border with Vosne, and with an average age of more than 50 years, yielding a wine with dark fruit and plenty of perfume. This is a bit closed on the initial attack, but opens up with time to show an expressive, subtle side, with a velvety texture and rewarding length on the palate. Drinking Window 2024 - 2039. (CC)

This red starts out supple, with cherry, raspberry and floral flavors bound by a layer of sinewy tannins. With air, this becomes more expansive, showing ample fruit shaded by mineral and spicy oak. Alluring and with all the components there, in time, this should find equilibrium. Best from 2025 through 2040.

The 2019 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Aux Murgers is showing particularly well—just like its 2018 predecessor at the same stage of its élevage. Wafting from the glass with aromas of raspberries, wild berries, rich soil tones, spices and grilled meats, it's medium to full-bodied, velvety and layered, with lively acids, beautifully refined tannins and a charming, gourmand profile. Jean-Nicolas Méo began picking on September 13, observing that "everything was ripe at once this year," and that alcohol levels—for the most part, around 14%—were a little higher than he would have wished for. Yet the wines in the glass are hard to fault: Méo excelled in 2018, and his 2019s are even more structurally refined and vibrant. As I've written before, Méo's wines see quite a long élevage, and they can often be a little structural and introverted in the fall following the vintage, but these 2019s, just like the 2018s at the same stage last year, were remarkably open for inspection. Displaying superb concentration and mid-palate amplitude without any particular perception of heaviness, I found much to admire; and, in summation, this is a very fine portfolio that, when taken as a set, appears to match or surpass what was achieved here in 2018. (WK)