Didier Séguier has fashioned an utterly classic and beautiful bottle of les Preuses in the 2014 vintage. The wine offers up all of the kaleidoscopic complexity of this magical terroir in its bouquet of lemon, green apple, just a touch of tangerine, complex minerality that shows both chalky and oyster shell facets, white flowers and a topnote of beeswax. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, pure and very, very racy, with superb mid-palate depth, a stunningly complex soil signature and a very, very long, seamless and electric finish. (Drink between 2020-2055)

Bright pale yellow. Elegant, refined aromas of yellow peach, lime leaf and white flowers. Densely packed and urgent, conveying outstanding intensity but no undue weight to its flavors of stone fruits, flowers and yeasty, iodiney oyster shell. Subtle treble notes of lime and mint lift the nose and palate. Wonderfully complex, silky, classy wine with a very long, seamless, subtly mounting finish. Séguier figures he'll like this wine best in 5 to 10 years but believes it will still be outstanding in 15.

The 2014 Chablis Grand Cru les Preuses has a tightly wound and quite strict bouquet, a little backward and demanding more bottle age to really express itself. The palate is well balanced with a touch of spice on the entry, as you would expect from this vintage; it has a pleasant saline touch, moderate weight in the mouth and it gradually builds towards a harmonious, ginger-tinged finish. This has great potential, but it needs 3-4 years in bottle, whereas I feel that the Valmur is more immediate. My rendezvous with Didier Seguier, head winemaker at William Fevre, was at their tasting room in Chablis ville, opposite the Bistro de Grand Cru. As usual, we tasted through their comprehensive portfolio, first with the 2015s, of which all but the entry-level wines are still in tank on their lees and due for bottling next year. Then we broached the 2014s in bottle.