Perfume of flowers, fresh tangerine and pear. The palate has a very supple structure and a mineral finish. An ample Chablis.

A subtle touch of wood sets off the restrained and all but mute nose where about the only identifiable aromas are green fruit and algae so be sure to decant this if you're going to try a bottle young. Otherwise there is very fine richness to the big-bodied and overtly powerful flavors that deliver stunningly good length and depth.

The 2014 Chablis Grand Cru Bougros has an attractive bouquet with scents of apple peelings, cold steel and flint-like aromas--austere, but nicely focused. The palate is well balanced with crisp acidity, fine definition and harmony, gently building in the mouth towards what is quite an elegant and saline finish. Give this a couple of years in bottle and you should have a fine Bougros on your hands. My rendezvous with Didier Seguier, head winemaker at William Fevre, was at their tasting room in Chablis ville, opposite the Bistro de Grand Cru. As usual, we tasted through their comprehensive portfolio, first with the 2015s, of which all but the entry-level wines are still in tank on their lees and due for bottling next year. Then we broached the 2014s in bottle.(NM)