I had the great fortune to visit Santorini last year, and one of my favorite stops was with Spyros Chryssos. Spyros comes from one of the island's great grower families, supplying fruit for years to top producers including Hatzidakis. Only in the last few years has he begun vinifying his own grapes, and it's a revelation. I tasted a lineup that included one of his first vintages, 2018, and was blown away by how much the wine had gained in bottle — but all of his new releases showed real proof of concept. Spyros is someone to watch, and this is a producer worth seeking out. His regular Santorini bottling comes only from his privately owned vineyards — many producers on the island rely on long-term contracts with other growers — and everything is farmed organically, with no chemical inputs. Handled entirely in stainless steel and aged on fine lees, this is a wine of real tension and nuance: citrus rind, roasted apple, crushed rock. It's everything I want from a Santorini white. Given its ageability, this is a keeper — stunning now, and it should be a true showstopper in just a few more years.