The 2023 Saint-Romain Sous le Château has turned out beautifully, offering aromas of tangerine, pear, grapefruit zest and dried white flowers. Medium- to full-bodied, ample and layered, underpinned by racy acidity and chalky extract, it concludes with a long, saline finish. It comes from a sunny, south-facing site that the Buisson brothers typically harvest among the first. Saint-Romain's contemporary reference point, brothers Franck and Frédérick preside over this 20-hectare domaine, producing characterful, stylish wines in both colors. The Buisson family has been estate bottling since 1947 and farming organically since the late 1940s, forerunners in both respects. After a brief period of more conventional farming during the 1980s and 1990s, the estate has since reaffirmed its commitment to organic viticulture and now holds both organic (since 2008) and biodynamic (since 2018) certifications.(WK)