The 2023 Saint-Romain Sous la Velle offers aromas of grapefruit, pear and white peach framed by a deft touch of smoky reduction. Medium- to full-bodied, ample and textural, with plenty of chalky extract, it’s laden with racy acids and concludes with a long, saline, lemon-tinged finish. As ever, it derives from the estate’s largest plot—two hectares of 60-year-old vines rooted in shallow soil. Saint-Romain's contemporary reference point, brothers Franck and Frédérick preside over this 20-hectare domaine, producing characterful, stylish wines in both colors. The Buisson family has been estate bottling since 1947 and farming organically since the late 1940s, forerunners in both respects. After a brief period of more conventional farming during the 1980s and 1990s, the estate has since reaffirmed its commitment to organic viticulture and now holds both organic (since 2008) and biodynamic (since 2018) certifications.(WK)