2020 Celler Pardas "Hermós" Brut Nature Corpinnat (Cava)

Celler Pardas’ “Hermos” is the epitome of modern sparkling wine production in Spain – intensely mineral-driven, austere and elegantly compact in structure. For anyone who doesn’t think they like Cava, this is also the wine that will almost definitely change their mind. Pardas belongs to the Corpinnat group of producers who broke off from DO Cava in recent years as a protest centered around quality and terroir. The two main arguments of the group were that the best sparkling wine in Spain comes from Penedes, in Catalunya just south of Barcelona (DO Cava permits winemaking in several regions spread across Spain, not just Penedes), and that the vinfication and aging requirements of DO Cava were not stringent enough to compete with the best sparkling wines in the world. In short, these splinter Cava producers believed in the quality and potential of top-shelf Cava and so they came together to form a new label reflective of their commitment to quality. Cellar Pardas is a newer member of the Corpinnat organization, but their contribution to the category undeniably reflects the standards to which the group is committed. I hate to make comparisons to Champagne, but the “Hermos” could easily be mistaken for a Brut Nature Champagne – similarly lean and fresh on the palate, the dominant notes are of Granny Smith apple, lemon zest and button mushroom, all framed by intense minerality and a subtle turned earth note. This is an eye-opening wine that showcases the potential of Penedes and highlights exactly why Corpinnat exists.