2023 is the inaugural vintage of Ways of Wayfarer, a new label for grapes sourced outside of Wayfarer’s Estate Vineyard in Cazadero. The 2023 Ways of Wayfarer Chardonnay Waters Ranch Vineyard comes from vines in Atlas Peak planted in 2000 by Cleo’s father, Jason Pahlmeyer. It opens slowly on the nose, segueing from white peach, panna cotta, spring honey and cashew to nuances of jasmine and spice. The full-bodied palate pairs ripe, peachy flavors with well-integrated new oak character from its maturation in 60% new French oak (a bit more than is used on the Wayfarer Chardonnay). Its mouth-coating texture is foiled by bright acidity, and it has a long, flavorful finish. It offers the power and luxury of California Chardonnay without going over the top. (EB)

This wine marks the inaugural release of Ways of Wayfarer, a new label created to explore cool-climate hillside vineyards beyond the Wayfarer estate. The 2023 Chardonnay is a tribute to Jayson Pahlmeyer’s legacy at Waters Ranch, a high-elevation site at 2,000 feet in Atlas Peak (Napa). Highly aromatic and chalky mineral, it opens with notes of citrus blossom, lemon peel, apple skins, and lemongrass. The palate is textured and generous (shaped by 15 months of ageing on lees) with a bit more weight than expected. There's a sweetness, candied fruit note on the palate, but it is combined with a bright line of acidity that provides lift, though the alcohol peeks through on the finish. (ACQ)

The 2023 Chardonnay Waters Ranch emerges from the Pahlmeyer family's ranch planted at 2,000 feet in elevation on Atlas Peak. Citrus confit, white flowers, chalk and white pepper open first. The style is one briskness and energy, although mountain structure is never too far off. This delicate, airy Chardonnay is terrific. All it might benefit from is a touch less new oak. (AG)