If you still associate Boroli with the modernist movement of the 1990s and early 2000s, it is time for a serious recalibration. Their strict return to traditional winemaking and large oak casks over a decade ago has completely unlocked the soul of their vineyards, and nowhere is that more evident than in their monopole cru, Brunella. Sitting entirely within Castiglione Falletto, this exclusive, sandy-soiled site is a masterclass in the village's signature balance of ethereal perfume. IIt vibrates with that "nervous" energy I am always hunting for. It is straight, vertical, and propelled by a tense, saline snap that literally makes the mouth water. The 2021 tannins are undeniably serious—granular, chalky, and demanding, but pleasent nonetheless. The new enologist, Cristiano Garella is really making this wine shining. A beautiful surprise.