2021 Boroli "Brunella" Barolo

Restrained rose and thyme emerge from the red cherry core – fruit purity is certainly evident. Fine, chalky tannins wield a graceful grip, while the finish lingers with luscious blood orange. Almost wholly owned by the Boroli family, the small 5ha MGA of Brunella is considered a natural extension of the southwest-facing Villero slope, though part spills westward. Incorporating the various exposures, this wine expresses its charms subtlety. Perhaps wants more complexity but is an absolutely delightful and elegant wine. (MM)

If you still associate Boroli with the modernist movement of the 1990s and early 2000s, it is time for a serious recalibration. Their strict return to traditional winemaking and large oak casks over a decade ago has completely unlocked the soul of their vineyards, and nowhere is that more evident than in their monopole cru, Brunella. Sitting entirely within Castiglione Falletto, this exclusive, sandy-soiled site is a masterclass in the village's signature balance of ethereal perfume. IIt vibrates with that "nervous" energy I am always hunting for. It is straight, vertical, and propelled by a tense, saline snap that literally makes the mouth water. The 2021 tannins are undeniably serious—granular, chalky, and demanding, but pleasent nonetheless. The new enologist, Cristiano Garella is really making this wine shining. A beautiful surprise.