This example was bottled in Porto and remained in the house’s bin until this tasting. The 1963 Vintage Port has a dark russet color. The nose is beautifully defined, perhaps this particular bottle less exuberant than other that I have encountered. It offers walnut, small cherries, juniper berries and a touch of spirit that expands in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with wonderful balance and fine tannins. It has tremendous weight matched by nigh perfect acidity. It is very harmonious, almost honeyed towards the finish with hazelnut and cloves infusing the decayed fruit and hints of menthol on the spicy aftertaste. This is a sublime Fonseca that will last another two or three decades with ease. Drink now-2030+. (NM)

A satisfyingly ripe bouquet that spans fresh plum and fig cassis jam with hints of liquorice, earth and leather. The aroma has something savoury about it, but the ripe, dense fruit dominates and carries the day. The sweetness is balanced but still true to the lush house style, and the alcohol does not stand out. The wine drinks today as one imagines it was intended to, with no element dominating the wine, and the whole providing a lovely way to finish a meal. There is no sign of flagging here. (CC)