Vivid gold. Wildly complex scents of yellow peach, nectarine, orange marmalade and candied flowers, with complicating honey and mineral qualities. Lush but penetrating citrus and pit fruit flavors boast remarkable depth and show unlikely elegance, with zesty citrus notes adding lift and clarity to the dense fruit. Nervy lime and pear notes resonate on the ridiculously long finish, which eventually leaves traces of lime zest, singed orange and honey behind. Offers an uncanny blend of richness and vivacity; this will have no problem outliving anybody reading this review but it's also pretty remarkable to drink now. (JR)

Comprising a virtually berry-by-berry selection of perfectly botrytized fruit from each of the domaine’s three sites, the Huet 2005 Vouvray Cuvee Constance will be virtually ageless. Quince jelly, marzipan, lemon candy, heliotrope, and honey levitate from the glass, in anticipation of the startling elegance, lift, and lightness of touch that this elixir exhibits on the palate, for all of its intensely honeyed richness. Fresh grapefruit and lemon leaven the wine and balance its 137 grams residual sugar, and the finish is astonishingly fresh and juicy, yet displays confectionary (marzipan, vanilla creme) and patisserie (buttered pastry with quince filling) sides as well. Anyone hoping to net and pin down in words this splendid butterfly of a wine will fail, but if you do pin down a bottle, let it soar across the next several decades. (DS)