Big and spicy, the 2004 The Colonial Estate Emigré has interesting notes of hot asphalt, spiced cassis and blackberry fruit, molasses and subtle vanilla. Very spicy and perfumed with nice complexity. Full bodied on the palate with a lush yet light texture, great balance and a long finish. An excellent wine that shows ripe fruit, nice complexity and a beautifully balanced palate that keeps you coming back for another sip.

Inky ruby. Ripe, deep and powerful on the nose, with aromas of dark cherry, boysenberry, red licorice, mocha and sweet forest floor. Fat and lush, showing more thickness and a creamier texture than the Exile. Almost porty in weight and texture, with berry flavors showing a liqueur-like viscosity. Still, there's a sense of brightness and focus to this outsized wine, with notes of floral pastille emerging on the back end. "A chateau wine from four parcels-unlike Exile, which is from a single site," notes Maltus. (JR)