A property on the corner opposite Cos d’Estournel, the vineyards of this estate are intertwined with those of its more famous neighbour. Given that, I have long felt the estate to be underperforming, its wines less than what they should be. I have long looked for improvement here, and it looks as though this vintage may have at least given us that. Aromatically this is all smoked cherry and cedary oak, confident and defined, different to the rather looser character I was expecting. The palate, meanwhile presents textured fruit, all toasted cherry and blackcurrant, wrapped up in a ribbon of gripped but ripe tannin, and some fresh acidity. This is the best Cos Labory I can ever recall tasting, just nudging the 2016 vintage into second place.

A lovely sense of balance and restraint. Plenty of black fruit, lots of cassis and bilberry. A good wine that is going to age very well, with plenty of tannic bite, if a little high in acidity. (JA)

Aromas of blackberries and blueberries with cloves, graphite and dark chocolate. It’s medium-to full-bodied with firm, tight-grained tannins. Sleek and refined with an austere, mineral finish. But polished texture. Better from 2024.