Another stunning edition of this wine, the 2023 ‘Espirit de Tablas’ combines 33% Mourvèdre (compared to 40% in 2022) and 31% Syrah (compared to 22% in 2022) alongside 26% Grenache and small parts Cinsault, Vaccarese and Counoise. The heady aromatics entice as herbs de Provence, orange peel, white pepper dusted beef, and shades of oyster sauce all parade on the nose. The palate is fresh and rich with a terrific sense of texture and underlying verve. This might not be the most dense or heady edition of this wine, but the flavor complexity and freshness makes this simply irresistible to enjoy right now. Simply put, the novelty is astonishingly good as there might not be another wine quite like this in the world. Be sure to give this about an hour in the decanter if savoring now. Drink 2025-2040.

The blend of the 2023 Esprit de Tablas is 33% Mourvèdre, 31% Syrah, 26% Grenache, 6% Cinsaut, 2% Vaccarèse and 2% Counoise, representing the closest percentage of the three main varieties in the cuvée's history. Poised and compelling from the outset, the nose seamlessly melds red and black fruits, fresh herbs and purple flower aromas with an underlying earth-tinged, petrichor quality. The palate is similarly multidimensional, dynamically delivering a suave yet snappy profile with juicy, mouthwatering acidity and palpable minerality that carries through the savory, refined finish. This is a reference point for the region and should enjoy a solid 15 years in the cellar.

The 2023 Esprit de Tablas, tasted from barrel, is a deep magenta color with a spicy array of black raspberry, cedar chips and dusty rose. This is soothingly round and pliant with fresh acidity and a cascade of ripe black fruits. Edgy tannins amass through the finish as the 2023 tapers off long and staining. A blackberry concentration and a web of fine tannins frame the experience beautifully. (EG)