A climat within Vaillons, bordering Roncières and Beugnons, the 2023 Chablis 1er Cru Les Chatains derives from a single plot of 0.8 hectares planted in the 1960s in clay-limestone soils. Wafting from the glass with an expressive bouquet of beeswax, crisp yellow orchard fruit and white peach, it’s somewhat more ample and succulent than Séchet, and Edouard confirms it’s one of the first sites they harvest. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, enveloping and expansive, with tangy acidity and fine depth at the core. Vocoret admits it may take a few years for the site to realize its full potential, as it has only recently been farmed with the organic practices the young couple now employ.(KK)

The maiden 2023 Chablis Chatains is located in the higher, steeper, rockier reaches of Les Vaillons and will be bottled separately. It has a mineral, stony bouquet that is reflective of its terroir. Just a bit timid at first but there is fine delineation. The palate is well balanced with hints of wild peach and orange pith. It shows very fine depth with a gentle grip on the finish. This is an impressive debut and well worth seeking out.(NM)

The plot is next to Vincent Dauvissat, Eleni’s mentor, on particularly stony soil. Crystalline white fruit, not too sunny at all. An agreeable generosity, perhaps just a bit lactic behind though with enough acidity. Drink from 2028-2034. Tasted Jun 2024.