Sourced from a large three-hectare vineyard in the plateau between Courgis and Beines, Moreau-Naudet’s 2023 Petit Chablis exhibits notes of peach, orange zest and honeysuckle. On the palate, it’s medium-bodied and textural yet bright, with lively acidity. Virginie Moreau notes that the site was affected by hail in April and May, but that does not seem to have altered its aromatic range. This estate has seen no less than five generations, but it only marketed its first bottles in 1991. Today, Virginie Moreau presides over this 25-hectare domaine following the premature passing of Stéphane Moreau in 2016. The order of the day is organic (though not certified) farming, harvesting ripe yet clean fruit cropped at modest yields and extended maturation—18 months on the lees in a combination of used oak barrels (mostly 228-liter, averaging 10 years old) and stainless steel, with final settling in tank for two to four weeks. After a series of sunny vintages, Virginie has started to vinify more wine in tank (Montmains and Valmur are now matured entirely in stainless steel), as she believes this helps retain more of the classically Chablisien signatures. These wines are always concentrated and textural, among the most characterful to be found in Chablis. The range of premier cru bottlings is the focus at this address, typically attaining its apogee with the Forêts, Montée de Tonnerre and Vaillons bottlings. Their only grand cru, Valmur, is also well worth seeking out.(KK)

The 2023 Petit Chablis has a pretty nose with hints of yellow flowers among the orchard fruit aromas. The palate is clean and fresh, with a fine bead of acidity, crisp citric note and a cohesive, lemony finish. Drink this over the next three to four years. Tasted blind at the BIVB offices in Chablis.(NM)