2023 El Enemigo Chardonnay Mendoza

The vines that produce the grapes for this intense and fruity chardonnay were planted at an altitude of 1,470 meters, in Gualtallary, at the northern end of the Uco Valley, on calcium-rich soils. And it behaves like what it is—a mountain white that smells of herbs and white fruits, but above all of herbs. The palate is marked by intense acidity, and the saline finish that is so common, in both red and white wines that come from those Uco soils. A textbook Andean chardonnay.

El Enemigo is a collaboration between Adrianna Catena, historian and youngest daughter of Nicolas Catena Zapata, and Alejandro Vigil, the director of winemaking at Bodega Catena Zapata. Vigil is a Chardonnay expert, and he is responsible for crafting the famed Catena Zapata “White Stones” and “White Bones” Chardonnays – perhaps the most collectible Chardonnays in South America. The El Enemigo Chardonnay, however, offers a compelling alternative viewpoint at a very reasonable price. Sourced from high-altitude vineyards in the Uco Valley, this Chardonnay stands out because a portion of the wine is aged under a layer of flor (a veil of yeast, similar to the method used for Fino Sherry), an uncommon technique that imparts subtle savory, nutty, and saline notes, balancing the vibrant fruit from the high-altitude terroir. The wine is fermented in large (500L) French oak barrels, 35% of which are new, and aged in the same barrels for 9 months. The resulting wine is not oxidized, however, but the contact with the flor contributes a faint white almond note, along with a weighty mouthfeel and texture. With a pH of 3.04 this is also an exceptionally racy wine, offering a wonderful counterbalance to the richness on the palate. The oak is so seamlessly integrated, melding perfectly with ripe golden apple and quince notes, and there is a line of minerality streaking through the core of the wine. With so many outstanding Chardonnays made in the New World, this one remains a standout, for its effortless balance between its golden fruit intensity and a stony, electric palate. This is, quite simply, one of the best Chardonnay deals we have available right now, from any country.