2022 Domaine Cecile Tremblay Echezeaux Grand Cru

Deep and dramatic, Tremblay's 2022 Echézeaux du Dessus Grand Cru soars from the glass with aromas of dark berries, cassis, sweet spices, orange rind, vine smoke and espresso roast. Full-bodied, broad and enveloping, with a textural attack and a layered, multidimensional mid-palate, it's ample and enveloping, with succulent acids and supple tannins. It's another great rendition of this grand cru from one of its leading exponents. In the June 9, 2022 issue of The Wine Advocate, I devoted an extensive article to Cécile Tremblay's Chapelle-Chambertin—and her domaine's past, present and future—so readers looking for more depth are directed there. The 2022 vintage, reviewed here, marks a point of departure for Tremblay, as she regained control over appreciable additional holdings in Beaux Monts and Morey-Saint-Denis Très Girard—family vineyards which had been leased out in a sharecropping agreement to another grower. That necessitated an extended winery and cellar, and Tremblay took the opportunity to add a cold room to facilitate the reception of fruit in warm conditions, a more and more common occurrence on the Côte d'Or. It's testimony to her exacting standards that she's elected to bottle her new Beaux Monts separately as a generic Vosne-Romanée premier cru, since she felt they didn't have the cut and energy of the wine produced from her historic parcel.(WK)

The 2022 Echézeaux du Dessus Grand Cru has a lively bouquet with dark berry fruit, black truffle and crushed stone that gains intensity in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, but it conveys a sense of symmetry and focus that is very appealing. Touches of blood orange emerge towards the finish. Long and tender, this should age well in bottle.(NM)