The superb concentration of the Trapet Chambertin in 2023 is a marvel, bringing the wine a profuse perfume of mulberry, bramble, mint and spice. The texture is tannic and tightly wound – this is a wine that requires a wait. Surely, however, there will be a recompense, since this is monumental. Pierre and Louis Trapet manage the effects of global warming by training the vines on stakes and not trimming the shoots, to which they attribute 0.10 less pH, and by the use of whole-cluster ferments, which lowers alcohol by 0.5%.(CC)

Purchased over 100 years ago, this is one of the many historic Trapet family terroir gems—not just for the length of ownership, but also for the 1.9 ha. (This domaine is the second largest owner of the appellation.) This will turn heads, especially given how quickly the scents evolved in the glass. Forest floor, toasted spices, game and black raspberries dance with glee. Some sweet oak influence attaches onto the palate. The long, finessed tannins and cuddly acidity meld into the background to let the fruit and terroir soar to the forefront.

The 2023 Chambertin Grand Cru contains around 80% whole cluster this year. It is more open on the nose than the Chapelle-Chambertin with perfumed brambly red berry fruit, wild hedgerow and crushed stone scents. Despite the slight reduction, the intensity comes through. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins and gentle grip. It's quite saline toward the finish with a hint of pain d'épices on the aftertaste. This is very promising.(NM)