Mid ruby, not quite as full as some. Elegance though in an understated way. Good dark fruit tension on the palate, this has some class to it, and the 80% whole bunch vinification barely shows. Drink from 2030-2037. Tasted Nov 2024.

Sitting on its own for several years now as the Cuvée Capita blend has been disbanded, this shines particularly brightly. Grilled black cherries, baked mulberries, lavender and warm charcoal create a web of complexity. The tannins caress while the acidity flirts up the back palate. Highly compelling already.

The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Aux Combottes has turned out very well, standing out as the most complete premier cru in the cellar this year. Offering up aromas of blackberries, incense and spices, it's medium to full-bodied, ample and pillowy, with lively acids and an expansive finish. The Trapet family has produced an attractive set 2023s. As readers will remember, there have been a host of changes at this address in recent years: in 2020, fully seven hectares of the domaine's holdings were converted both to échalas and to higher trellising stakes and wires, depending on the steepness of the slope. Since then, changes have been rolled out in other parcels too. Given the extent of Trapet's holdings in prime climats, that means that the walk from Morey-Saint-Denis to Gevrey-Chambertin suddenly looks rather different. In the cuverie, winemaking continues to be classical, with important percentages of whole clusters, followed by élevage in ever diminishing percentages of new oak, with foudres joining barrels in the cellar.(WK)