After cold, wet spring delayed flowering, northern winds and some rain tempered the summer heat, ahead of harvest starting on 14 September. A great vintage for Brunello, proclaims viticulture and winemaking director Federico Radi (who started at the estate in 2017) this is a vivacious, lively wine, with great freshness allied to a pliable structure. Orange peel, violet, rose, bay leaf and exotic spice notes run through the rich berry fruit supported by textured black-tea tannins. Vinified using a pied de cuve (indigenous yeast from the vineyard used as a fermentation starter) in oak barrels, concrete and stainless steel tanks, then aged in Slavonian oak barrels for 30 months. (TG)

Very perfumed and fragrant with sweet berries and fresh roses that follow through to a medium body with pretty depth of fruit and balance. Racy and driven, there’s a lot going on in the center-palate. The legend lives. Give this a few years to open, but already impressive. Best after 2027.

This wine will be released in March 2025. The Biondi-Santi 2019 Brunello di Montalcino was born in a generous vintage that provided abundant high-quality fruit. The growing season became progressively warmer throughout summer, without heat spikes, and it ended with well-timed rains and a warm autumn. Harvest started in mid-September, and the grapes ripened according to the right parameters without over-ripeness. The wine shows a natural textural richness that is supported by dark fruit, navel orange, tobacco, laurel leaf and Mediterranean herb. There are flinty mineral notes that add to the complexity. This beautiful wine hits a special mark: it offers the ethereal qualities you expect of this celebrated estate, with a good level of austerity to match. (ML)