The 2023 Saint-Aubin en Montceau 1er Cru hails from one of Damien Colin's favorite lieux-dits known for its poor marl soils not dissimilar to Le Trezin in Puligny, although the vines here ripen later. It has a generous, fresh, vibrant bouquet with crushed stone and fleeting sea spray scents. Indeed, you might mistake it for a Puligny! The palate is well balanced and just a little creamy in texture, with hints of chamomile and white chocolate on the finish. This is a Saint-Aubin predisposed to give as much pleasure as possible.(NM)

Firm reduction dominates the underlying fruit at present. By contrast, there is a lovely sense of verve and freshness to the beautifully detailed and markedly stony lighter weight flavors that also display a citrus-tinged and lingering finale that is a bit more complex. This is fairly tightly wound so it’s going to need at least a few years of keeping.