One thing that continues to set Rioja apart from the rest of the wine world is its tradition of releasing perfectly matured wines at incredibly reasonable prices. Often decades old, these bottles offer a fascinating glimpse into how wine evolves over time, and the 2006 Bodegas Urbina Reserva Especial Rioja is a great example. Garnet-tinged in color, the wine requires a moment to open in the glass—it has been resting peacefully, after all, for nearly twenty years. Once it opens, a huge array of savory aromas unfurls: dried cherry, orange rind, and tobacco leaf mingle with notes of cigar box. Earthy scents of crunchy leaves and soft moss quickly follow, alongside hints of faint campfire and roasted meats. Everything is presented in a lithe, medium-bodied profile, supported by gently gripping tannins and surprisingly vibrant acidity. Aged in American oak, the wine possesses a mild rustic edge, but in the best way, reminiscent of paging through old books in a library. Its elegant structure carries the dense, compact flavors effortlessly toward a lingering finish. While this wine displays its maturity, it also retains a remarkable freshness; it could easily age for another decade, though it is so delicious now that waiting may be difficult.

This awesomely priced 2006 puts out a lot of scents once you leave it in your glass for a few minutes to open up. Fire-roasted cherries with a background of honeyed wood, cinnamon, sage and fresh minerals. On the palate, medium to deep red fruits, roof of the mouth dry tannins and fresh wood. The fruit is deeper and darker on the palate than on the nose and it also has more minerality and a nice crunchy finish. The dark cherries dial their presence back up on the tip of tongue while the oak is on the upper palate. A very, very satisfying Rioja that is almost 20 years into its age. It will go even longer, if so desired.