2006 Bodegas Urbina Reserva Especial Rioja

Vivid ruby-red. Highly perfumed aromas of red and blue fruit preserves, coconut, mocha and pungent flowers, plus a hint of pipe tobacco emerging with air. Sappy and broad on the palate, offering sweet cherry-vanilla, spicecake and cola flavors and a hint of smokiness. Closes smooth, spicy and long, with lingering smokiness and fine-grained tannins adding subtle grip. Aged for two years in American oak barrels. (JR)

One thing that continues to set Rioja apart from the rest of the wine world is its tradition of releasing perfectly matured wines at incredibly reasonable prices. Often decades old, these bottles offer a fascinating glimpse into how wine evolves over time, and the 2006 Bodegas Urbina Reserva Especial Rioja is a great example. Garnet-tinged in color, the wine requires a moment to open in the glass—it has been resting peacefully, after all, for nearly twenty years. Once it opens, a huge array of savory aromas unfurls: dried cherry, orange rind, and tobacco leaf mingle with notes of cigar box. Earthy scents of crunchy leaves and soft moss quickly follow, alongside hints of faint campfire and roasted meats. Everything is presented in a lithe, medium-bodied profile, supported by gently gripping tannins and surprisingly vibrant acidity. Aged in American oak, the wine possesses a mild rustic edge, but in the best way, reminiscent of paging through old books in a library. Its elegant structure carries the dense, compact flavors effortlessly toward a lingering finish. While this wine displays its maturity, it also retains a remarkable freshness; it could easily age for another decade, though it is so delicious now that waiting may be difficult.