The 2023 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a complex bouquet with a mixture of red and black fruit, Morello cherries and blackcurrant, later joined with subtle blueberry scents. It's finely delineated, quite open and intense as Bonnes-Mares should be. The palate has a touch of dark chocolate on the entry. It's quite fleshy, but there is real structure underneath. There are touches of black pepper toward the finish. Excellent.(NM)

This wine wasn't giving much on the nose as it was incredibly cold. Plum, fireplace cinders and a wee hint of vanilla eke through. Creamy, cuddly tannins and elegant acidity gently hold this together. The Seysses always hold some of this back as they know the wine shows even better down the road.

Dujac's 2023 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is a beauty, unfurling in the glass with aromas of cherries, red plums, spices and rose petals. Medium to full-bodied, dense and layered, it's precise and mineral, with lively acids and a long, saline finish. Domaine Dujac's 2023 harvest began with Les Folatières on September 1, followed by a five-day pause before resuming on September 6. As elsewhere, yields were generous, and alcohol levels range between 13.3% and 14%. The domaine's more spacious and better temperature-controlled new winery was surely an asset, and the 2023s are shaping up nicely, offering up expressive fruit as well as plenty of underlying structure. Readers, of course, will be familiar with the outlines of the Dujac approach to producing red Burgundy: organic farming, fermentation with a predominance of whole clusters (with some 20% to 30% destemmed this year) and élevage in barrels largely sourced from Tonnellerie Rémond.(NM)