Note: from a 1.06 ha holding. A brooding nose grudgingly offers up an array of various dark berries and pungent newly turned earth scents. The rich, concentrated and velvet-textured middleweight flavors possess evident minerality that adds a sense of lift to the balanced, youthfully austere and age-worthy finish. Worth a look.

Bursting with aromas of cherries, dark berries and petals, the 2022 Monthélie Les Duresses is medium-bodied, ample and fleshy, its succulent core of fruit framed by supple tannins. The first produced under the direction of Léa and Pierre Lafon, the 2022 vintage has turned out very well at this address, delivering both quality and reasonable quantity, a welcome change after the vicissitudes of 2021. For now, no big changes are afoot, and Dominque Lafon continues to be a guiding presence—organic and biodynamic farming in the vineyards, barrel fermentation for whites, two winters' élevage on the lees for both colors, and bottling under Diam technical corks (since 2013) continue to be the order of the day. What's new this year are two attractive cuvées of Puligny-Montrachet, the fruit of a sharecropping agreement.(WK)

The 2022 Monthélie Les Duresses, 100% de-stemmed, has a refined and pure bouquet with blueberry and light iodine aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, crisp and fresh, slightly brittle on the finish but with plenty of freshness. Drink over the next decade.(NM)