Structured and substantial; there is a black plum and mulberry fruit, accented with notes of smoke, fresh saddle leather, earth and game. The texture is super-concentrated, with firm, grippy tannins, massive extract, and more than enough freshness to carry this to a superbly long finish. The grapes are from a parcel of 1.64ha on the Morey side of the appellation; the oldest vines were planted just after the Second World War, the youngest being 40 years old. This is top-flight wine.(CC)