An enticing waft of fragrant spices draws you into the glass, where ripe and juicy black cherry and currant fruit is underscored by a clean swathe of underlying salinity. Details of pickled ginger, crystallized honey, biscuit and white blossoms expand nicely on the plush mousse, which is raw silk–like in feel. This is rich and expressive, with good depth, yet its chiseled acidity provides fine definition throughout. Mouthwatering finish. Disgorged February 2025. Drink now through 2035. (AN)

The NV PN-TX20 is a powerful, tightly wound wine. All the drive of Pinot comes through in this decidedly virile Champagne. As with all the wines in this new series from Bollinger, the NV PN-TX20 is built around a base wine, in this case 2020 Pinot Noir from Tauxières, with 50% reserve wines, half of them from Bollinger's extensive library of reserve wines aged in magnum. This is an especially vinous Champagne, one that needs at least a year or two in bottle to unwind. The year was characterized by a relatively short cycle of just 87 days from flowering to a harvest that began on August 25. Dosage is 8 grams per liter. Disgorged: January, 2025. 93+ (AG)

Named after the village of Tauxières, from which it takes its abbreviation, the new NV Blanc de Noirs PN TX20 contains 40% fruit sourced from Tauxières, and the remaining composition draws largely from Aÿ-Champagne and Avenay-Val-d'Or. This cuvée is based on the 2020 vintage (48%), complemented by reserve wines from 2019 (stored in tank) as well as 2012 and 2008 (both aged in magnums). Disgorged in February 2025 with a dosage of eight grams per liter, it bursts from the glass with expressive aromas of ripe pear, tangerine peel, clove and brioche. On the palate, it is medium- to full-bodied, broad and textural, with lively acidity and a generous core of fruit. The finish is expansive, though a subtle sweetness emerges, lending the impression of being one of the least dry expressions among the house’s Pinot Noir Champagnes. Vinified equally in stainless steel and oak barrels, approximately 80% of the fruit for this cuvée is sourced from Bollinger’s own vineyards. (KK)