The 2024 Grüner Veltliner Fass 4 is a brand that has existed since 1988 and is partly what made Bernhard Ott's name. It is harvested in the Hengstberg site, which straddles the regions of Kamptal and Wagram. Subtle yeast shows the verve of reduction, but also a salty, herbal tang typical of Grüner Veltliner. The palate continues with that herbal edge, bringing crushed yarrow and something slightly more peppery that smooths into the yeasty yet slender texture. Tender saltiness makes for a long finish on this slender, smooth wine.(AK)