The 2024 Grüner Veltliner Steinertal Smaragd, situated between two lateral valleys that channel cool air, gives this terraced site of gneiss higher day-to-night amplitude and lower daytime temperatures. Gentle spice brings white pepper and crushed fern on the nose. The palate arrives with perfect tension, peppery fern, fine citrus freshness and beautiful concentration. Citrus is key this year on this wonderfully long and incisive Grüner.(NM)