There is only one 400-litre cask of this exquisite wine that Billaud describes as 'my Chevalier des Clos' because of its abundant mineral tension. The wine has pronounced aromas of lime zest, green apple and ripe nectarine with a strong, saline mineral undercurrent and hints of flowers and spice. The texture balances thrilling tension with a creamy depth of flavour. Billaud explains his success: 'In the vines, one must remain alert and listen to what the vintage tells you; just because there is volume doesn't mean the concentration is lacking.'(CC)

One small upper hillside plot. Much more backward than the Vaudesir. Taking time to deliver. The solid bench of white limestone, dynamic and rather more saline, but much mire hidden. All the potential though.

The 2023 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos is a deep, concentrated wine, offering an expressive bouquet of citrus oil, pear, freshly baked bread, orange oil and honeysuckle. On the palate, it is full-bodied, with a generous, muscular core of fruit that is layered and textural, underpinned by racy acidity and culminating in a long, saline finish. A wine of considerable potential, confirming all the promise shown from barrel, it will reward extended patience before opening the first bottles.(KK)