2012 Bründlmayer Ried Langenloiser Steinmassl 1 ÖTW Kamptal DAC Riesling (Library Release)

Brundlmayer’s 2012 Riesling Steinmassel Reserve – which has a less geologically specific “regular” counterpart from younger vines – originates in a half-century-old stand on pure, mica-rich gneiss. At 13.5% it represents by a whisker the highest in alcohol of this collection’s Rieslings, which speaks volumes to their collective restraint. Fresh lime and ripe pear mingle with lychee and tangerine rind in the nose, anticipating the ripe, fruity richness of a polished, glossy palate performance to whose generosity banana and apple contribute, while stony, alkaline undertones offer both backdrop and counterpoint. Look for this to impress through at least 2022. “Two thousand twelve is a perfect vintage,” enthuses Willi Brundlmayer, “with great high points but high quality throughout,” and I am certainly not going to dispute that the collection in question commences at an unusually high level even by his extremely well-established standards. Incidentally, Brundlmayer relates that he has only in recent years been laying away portions of his most important wines sealed with screw caps (a form of closure that he has been utilizing for some time in his tasting room but only recently begun marketing) and wants a few more years of experience in comparing these with natural cork bottlings before considering any major change in his routine.(DS)