2020 La Tour de Mons, Margaux

Another gem of a wine from the talents of Marjolaine de Coninck, who manages all of the Perrodo family vineyards (Châteaux Labégorce and Marquis d'Alesme), the 2020 Château La Tour De Mons checks in as 57% Merlot, 36% Cabernet Sauvignon, and the rest Cabernet Franc, aged in 30% new oak. This medium-bodied, round, absolutely charming and delicious Margaux gives up lots of cedary, spicy herbs, sweet tobacco, and sandalwood nuances, and it's nicely textured, with soft tannins and a great finish. Where most 2020s really demand bottle age, this already offers loads of pleasure. It should keep nicely through 2032.

A majority Merlot in the blend, this feels unforced, with sappy brambled fruits and plenty of hawthorn edging giving fresh acidities. Grilled and bitter tannins on the finish but there is sinew and interest here, and it's a good wine, pretty serious with an attractive edge of smoked cedar. Bought by the team at Marquis d'Alesme in February 2020, this is the first year that they have followed entirely from beginning to end (with the decision taken to keep distinct from Labegorce, as was a question on their purchase, and a full 17ha of vines were pulled up out of 60ha in total, to be replanted over the next 10 years). First time hand harvesting (especially complicated with Covid-19 protocols). 3% Petit Verdot completes the blend. 3.6pH, 25% new oak. A yield of 32hl/ha. (JA)