The 2023 Pinot Noir Jack Hill comes from a site in Freestone-Occidental. It’s a proper standout in a range of excellent wines. The 2023 delivers so much concentration and density, yet it comes through without an iota of excess. Lavender, black tea leaves, sage, white pepper and new leather unfurl in a seriously complex, enticing picture. It’s crunchy and lively through the finish, echoing long with a lifted note of orange zest. The Jack Hill is fresh, persistent and laser-focused, not to mention a joy to taste, even in the early going. (BN)