The 2023 Listán Negro from Viñátigo is a simply superb young wine. This bottling is made from ancient, ungrafted vines that predate phylloxera. Juan Jesus ferments the wine in stainless steel tanks and ages it for just under six months in used Burgundy casks. The 2023 version comes in at 13.5 percent octane this year and delivers a beautiful bouquet of black cherries, dark berries, tree bark, Canary Islands’ botanicals, a fine base of volcanic soil, chicory and a wisp of oak. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied, deep and complex, with a great core, superb mineral drive and grip, ripe, buried tannins, tangy acids and impeccable balance on the long and very, very promising finish. All this outstanding wine needs is sufficient cellaring to soften up its backend tannins! 2035-2075.