Fine purple. The succulence of the fruit stands out here. Then rather tighter than expected with fresh acidity on the palate, showing the leaner aspects of the hillside site. This may fill out more later on, to earn a higher rating. Drink from 2028-2034.

The 2022 Chambolles-Musigny Les Veroilles has a very slight reduction as the gestating wine moves into its second winter in barrel (it will be racked soon). The open, fresh palate offers dark berry fruit with light sous-bois scents, fresh and saline with a poised, quite linear finish. Well-crafted and classic in style.(NM)

The 2022 Chambolle-Musigny Les Veroilles opens in the glass with notes of sweet red berries, cherries, vine smoke and spices. Medium-bodied, pure and fine-boned, with a sweet core of fruit, melting tannins and a sapid finish, it derives from a high-altitude parcel above Bonnes Mares. As I wrote last year, I'd heard murmurings of a renaissance at Domaine Bruno Clair for some time, so I've now added this address to my annual itinerary along the Côte d'Or. Evolution has indeed been underway: Farming is now very close to organic across the 24-hectare estate; yields are being limited more strictly in the younger parcels; superior vine genetics are being t-budded onto existing plantings; cover crops are the order of the day, with the frequency of cultivation reduced; trees are being incorporated within all new plantings; and now, in the winery, whole clusters are being systematically retained in significant percentages, while the frequency of punching down has reduced. What are the results? The pure-fruited style of the domaine, which doesn't push ripeness or percentages of new oak, remains very much intact, but it's actualized with more intensity of flavor and more expressive fruit.(WK)