The 2023 Bonnes-Mares from de Vogüé is a lush, concentrated wine boasting ripe black plum and mulberry aromas with hints of earth, smoke, and leather. The texture is dense, ‘horizontal’ in the expression of director Jean Lupatelli. The grapes are from the domaine’s 2.7 hectares, all on the ‘terres rouges’ section of the appellation with iron-rich clay soils, which makes this a substantial wine. Cellar this for seven to 10 years before opening and enjoy over the next three decades.(CC)

This is almost excessively fragrant—in a good way, were that possible. Summer flowers, cherry coulis and black currants get the nose started. Impressively, the vintage's fruit generosity gives this unusual amplitude this year. Rather than being compact and turned in on itself (after all, this comes exclusively from red soils), it's as though it is reaching out to invite you in. The fruit is almost cuddly in its suppleness. Wispy lacings of minerality fleck the wine from start to finish. These 60-65 year old vines turned out an especially impressive and expressive cuvée this year.

Note: from a very large 2.67 ha parcel situated entirely in terres rouges soil in the far southern portion of the vineyard. A slightly riper nose of blue skinned fruit, plum, anise and more evident floral influence is complemented by the equally ripe, rich and opulent larger-bodied flavors where the seductive texture contrasts markedly with the firm, serious, powerful and robust finale. This beautifully well-balanced and superbly long effort should age effortlessly.