Lemon candy, honey and brown spices in the nose. Full of fat in the mouth and densely packed with smoky mineral dust, brown spices and tropical and citrus fruits. The shriveling of fruit at the level of gold capsule Auslese, Schug says, resulted in a welcome elevation of acidity. And here-if not in a rather constricted Wehlener Sonnenuhr-one senses this in the thrust and concentration, even if this wine is not about elegance. 1 star.(DS)