2003 Dr. Loosen Bernkasteler Lay Riesling Kabinett Mosel

Ripe black cherry, blackcurrant and lime aromas followed by juicy, luscious fruit on the palate. Quite sweet ("How else to keep down the alcohol?" asks Schug), but manages an appropriate lightness of touch and shows plenty of slate, salt and spice in a quite invigorating finish. One seems to taste here the advantages of Bernkastel's soils in retaining moisture. Potential 2 stars.(DS)