2022 Schiopetto M Collio Friulano

The 2022 M-Mario Schiopetto slowly evolves in the glass as a distinctly savory blend of young peaches and flinty stone gives way to wild herbs, iodine and spice. This is elegant in feel, with round textures presenting a nearly oily feel offset by brisk acidity and salty minerality that cakes the palate as ripe orchard fruits emerge toward the close. This finishes with admirable length and refinement, lightly structured, leaving hints of lemon zest and mint to fade over time. That said, the best is yet to come. The M-Mario Schiopetto is a blend of Friulano and Riesling.

This is not just a wine; it is a benchmark for Friulano. The 'M' stands for Mario, and it is created from the estate's oldest vines, planted in 1954. These 70-year-old roots dig deep into the marl, producing a wine of shocking complexity and depth. Interestingly, there is a touch of Riesling in the blend here. This secret weapon lifts the aromatics and adds a vibrating nerve of acidity to the rich Friulano fruit. And crucially, there is no wood here. This is pure, unadulterated terroir. It is incredibly aromatic, bursting with notes of crushed sea shell, brine, white roses, and honey blossom. On the palate, it is racy and refined, with savory layers of dried mushrooms, schist, and ash. It has a medium body but an intensity that feels weightless. Suckling calls it "very aromatic... with a racy and refined texture that gives so much length and beauty." This is a white wine that will age effortlessly, but it is already singing right now. If you only buy one white wine from Friuli this year, make it this one.