Particularly charming this year, this starts with match strike and crushed chalk. The minerality soars from start to dry, crunchy finish. Crackling acidic tension enlaces the vibrant mid-palate fruit: Key limes, Buddha's hands and Asian pears. These vines sit in a layer of clay that barely covers the bedrock.

The 2023 Puligny-Montrachet Champs Gain 1er Cru offers plenty of tropical notes of passionfruit, nectarine and white peach on the nose. It's simpatico with delineation and typicité, though still identifiable as a Puligny. The palate is very well balanced with more weight than the Hameau de Blagny. More tropical notes mold the finish with a dash of ginger on the aftertaste. This will be difficult to resist in its youth but its intensity suggests it will age with aplomb.(NM)

Note: from the north end of the vineyard by Truffière. Here the nose is quite firmly reduced and unreadable today. More interesting are the super-sleek and beautifully textured medium weight flavors that possess a lovely sense of verve while delivering even better persistence on the clean, dry and balanced finale.*Burghound Outstanding!*