From Tuscan winemaker Carlo Ferrini, who shares deep love for Sicily, the Alberelli di Giodo 2022 Nerello Mascalese (a production of 9,000 bottles all with a red wax capsule) is one of the best made wines from the volcano on the market today. Carlo Ferrini's signature touch adds an extra layer of dark fruit concentration and sweet spice. Indeed, the wine ages in 500- and 700-liter barrels for 18 months. Fruit comes from a 1.9-hectare site with 50- to 80-year-old plants at 560 to 850 meters in elevation on the north side of Etna. The tannins are expertly managed, and although you feel that firm structure, there is enough dark fruit to smooth it all out, giving the wine depth and power. (ML)

Light, steely and energetic, this Nerello is already absolutely delicious and sums up the delicacy the grape is capable of in the right hands. It offers bright and sapid cherry fruit with a hint of blood orange, but should open up with more time in bottle. From Nerello Mascalese vines at around 850m above sea level in contrada Rampante. (JB)