The 2005 Volnay Caillerets Clos des 60 Ouvrees (like the Clos d’Audinac and Clos de la Bousse d’Or, a monopole) features the oldest vines in the estate’s Volnay holdings, more than half of them planted in the mid fifties. Black cherry, purple plum, pistachio, ginger, and cumin inform the nose. On the palate this offers old vines creaminess, flattering glycerin, and yet also a persistently bright freshness of black fruits. A deep, lingering, faintly caramel-inflected bitter-sweetness, spice, and chalk further testifies to the concentration in this wine, which surpasses the Bousse d’Or in structure and gives it a hard run for its money in the charm department. Check on this in 8-10 years but then figure on another decade of improvement in the cellar.